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I'm Scott from PYS and today we're going to be replacing this older cell booster with a Starlink. They're quite common 5-10 years ago, but now the Starlinks are taking over. They're just so much better. So, we're going to reuse the the mount here and basically put it the same spot here and uh follow us along for the next few steps and we'll get it up and running. >> If you're looking for more product information, see the links in the description below or go to our [music] website rotoronmarine.com. >> First step is to remove the old antenna. Antennas are tricky cuz they most of them are threaded. This was garbage. We could just cut the cable, take it off and we won't wouldn't be worried about it, but we are actually going to repurpose this and just move it out of the way of the Starlink. It's all still functional, still wired. There's no point taking it off. So, I'm going to have to actually take off the mount and then unthread the mount so the cables doesn't get all twisted up. So, now instead of turning the antenna, we can just turn the mount. Yeah, we're going to reuse this mount for the Starlink. So, we have an adapter for the Starlink to attach onto a standard threaded VHF mount. We want to keep it off the radar, so this should be about the right height. It'll sit up about here, stay out of the the radar beam. There's potential chance of damaging electronics from the radar. I know the Gen 2s for sure would stop working if you mount them next to radar and turn the radar on, they'd actually just stop functioning. You lose your internet access and just from interference from the the radar beam. If you put a big object next to the radar, it would actually just block the the vision of the radar as well and you may not see ships on that side of the boat. So, we've got this current Starlink Mini comes with this guy. It's designed to sit on the ground. These mounts are going to replace that one. Threaded for a standard VHF antenna mount. This will just pop off. And now we can attach this onto the mount we just took apart there. And we want a bit of tilt to it to keep the rainwater off of it, draining off. I would probably end up tilting it away from this stuff just for the clearest picture on this boat, but it's kind of it'll point anyway cuz I mean, the boat's going to be turned anyway, so we can't really just aim it in a certain direction. And this one's got a a bolt to keep it from spinning later on. We still got to run the cable, but we'll just get this guy mounted up here first. And then, so now we've replaced old cell antenna with a new Starlink. Yeah, we got lucky in this boat cuz there's a cable gland already for for a penetration. If the cell booster was being removed, we could reuse this one, but we are actually just moving it and we're going to leave it on the boat. So, we do need a second cable, second hole, and we got lucky cuz it's already done for us here. We left this as a spare um gland, but there's no hole yet. So, make a cable hole for the into the boat. >> So so far the Starlink we've basically mounted it on the existing mount from the old style antenna, got the cable routed in through the ceiling, down a conduit, down in this this corner here with kind of the some of the DC wiring is. From that point we're just going to make a going to cut a piece of starboard plate to mount our DC DC controller on just cuz there's nowhere to really put it down there yet. There was an existing Contoure switch, so we've added a new switch to there and it's going to shut the Orion on and off just using the remote port on the Orion. So we're able to use the factory Starlink mini cable because we're going to be boosting it up to 30 volts. They really they claim to work at 12 volts, they really don't unless you run a really big cable and you you know maintain 13 14 volts. But because we're going to boost it up to 30 we can use the factory cable. So next step is we're going to put this DC to DC converter in down below and it's going to send 30 volts up to the Starlink. Still got to run up the main power feed from the from the boat to the Orion. But now we have a remote trigger switch for the Orion on and off and the actual Starlink cables has fed. We've now installed an Orion. So on this boat we installed Starlink mini, we we removed the old cell phone booster. We managed to reuse the existing mount, run the original Starlink mini cable down. From there we added an Orion voltage booster, basically an Orion 12 to 24 volt to get that mini volts up to 30 volt range. And then we've basically fed the Orion 12 volts from the DC distribution. We've added a a toggle switch on off so we can shut the Starlink off when it's not being used just, you know, save power when you don't need it. The last couple years are kind of a game changer for people who want to work work on their boat or work away from home. The Starlinks are pretty easy to install. Lots of boats are getting them. At home you can literally take it, plug it in. Boats a little trickier, [music] the hardest part's usually routing the cable. We had to open up a bunch of panels, ceiling panels and just to root the cables. That's actually one of the hardest parts. So it's a little bit trickier on a boat than at a house or, you know, if you like a Starlink installed on your boat, check out the link in the description. >> Thanks for watching this video. If you're looking for more product information, see the links in the description below or go [music] to my website roatanmarine.com.